With a saturated deep ruby color, but less intense than some other St.-Emilions, this is probably the best Canon in a number of years. It is still made in a relatively austere, tannic style, but strong black cherry and loamy soil notes intermixed with some licorice and background subtle oak lead to a rich, elegant, stylish effort that is closed and in need of cellaring.

South of Pomerol lies the medieval, perched village of St Emilion. Surrounding St Emilion are vines that produce round, rich and often hedonistic wines. Despite a myriad of soil types, two main ones dominate - the gravelly, limestone slopes that delve down to the valley from the plateau and the valley itself which is comprised of limestone, gravel, clay and sand. Despite St Emilion's popularity today, it was not until the 1980s to early 1990s that attention was brought to this region.

The Château Canon 2005 has a more complex nose than the Clos Fourtet tasted alongside. It is tightly wound at first with black cherries and dried violet petals, terracotta tiles and brown spices. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and very well-judged acidity. This is very harmonious in the mouth, nicely structured with great precision and persistence. There is a sense of reserve here, but it has a compelling complexity that will surely be enhanced with bottle age. It's wines like these that remind you why this has such as devoted following that includes yours truly among its number.